Corvallis Brewing Supply

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Welcome to lickspigot.com! We have all your supplies and recipes for Brewing Beer, Cheese Making, Soda Making, and Wine Making. We also Carry a wide range of rather exciting and exceptionally brilliant commercial beer, wines, hard ciders, sake, mead and craft sodas!

First Brew...Your life will never be the same!

This 5-gallon recipe format is designed to get you into an easy and very successful process of homebrewing that produces a very delicious beer!!  These instructions are not for all-grain brewing, but instead for malt extract with steeping grains with a partial boil.  There are 8 styles to choose from and the guidelines are the same for all.  Reference the individual recipe for specifics on ingredients and their usage.

County Fair Blue Ribbon  - ‘Merican Lite Style

* Extracts: 3 lbs. Light Dried Malt Extract & 1 lb. rice solids

* Steeping Malts: 1/2 lb. CaraPils Malt (1.5 L)

* Hops: Crystal or Mt. Hood Hops  (1-oz. for 60 minute boil and 1/2 oz. last 10 minutes of boil)

* Yeast : White Labs San Francisco, East Coast or Cream Ale

* Irish Moss: 1 tsp. 30 minutes into boil

* Gypsum: 2 tsp. 30 minutes into boil

* Priming Sugar: 3/4 cup dextrose or 1-1/4 cup D.M.E.

                        

An All American Heroine - Hoppy American Pale Ale

* Extracts: 7 lbs. Pale Malt Extract

* Steeping Malts: 1 lb. Caramel Malt ( 10L or 20 L)

* Hops:  Cascade, and/or Centennial Hops (2 oz. for 60   minute boil and 1 oz. each last 10 and 0 min)

*Yeast :  White Labs American Ale Blend or Cal V

* Irish Moss: 1 tsp. 30 minutes into boil

* Gypsum: 3 tsp. 30 minutes into boil

* Priming Sugar: 3/4 cup dextrose or 1-1/4 cup D.M.E.

 

Pirates Plunder  - Savage India Pale Ale

* Extracts: 8 lbs. Pale Malt Extract

* Steeping Malts: 1-1/2 lbs. Caramel Malt (10L or 20L)

*Hops: 2 oz. Nugget or Chinook ( 60 minutes 2 oz. Cascade, Citra or Centennial Hops ( 1/2 oz. each for last 15, 10, 5 & 0 min)

* Yeast: White Labs  Burton Ale , London or Cal V

* Irish Moss: 1 tsp. 30 minutes into boil

* Gypsum: 4 tsp. 30 minutes into boil.

* Priming Sugar: 3/4 cup dextrose or 1-1/4 cup D.M.E.

                        

Standard Stout  - Dark, roasty, contemplative

* Extracts: 8 lbs. Dark Malt Extract

* Steeping Malts: 1/2 lb. Caramel Malt (80 or 120 L),   3/4 lb. Roasted Barley & 1/4 lb. Chocolate Malt

*Hops: Perle or Northern Brewer Hops (1-1/2 oz. 60  &  1/2    oz. last 10 min)

* Yeast: White Labs Irish, Edinburgh or California

* Irish Moss: 1 tsp. 30 minutes into boil

* Gypsum: 3 tsp. 30 minutes into boil

* Priming Sugar: 3/4 cup dextrose or 1-1/4 cup D.M.E.

 

Ambition Amber Ale  - Dark, Rich and Malty

* Extracts: 8 lbs. Amber Malt Extract

* Steeping Malts: 1 lb. Caramel Malt ( 40 L or 60L)

* Hops: Cascade, Citra or Fuggles Hops (1-1/2 oz. for 60  minutes & 1/2 oz. for last 10 minutes)

* Yeast: White Labs British, Edinburgh or Cal. V

* Irish Moss: 1 tsp. 30 minutes into boil

* Gypsum :  3 tsp. 30 minutes into boil

* Priming Sugar: 3/4 cup dextrose or 1-1/4 cup D.M.E.

 

Best Brown Ale  - Nutty, not wacky

* Extracts: 6 lbs. Pale Malt Extract

* Steeping Malts: 1/2 lb. Caramel Malt (60L or 80L), 1/4 lb. Chocolate Malt &1/4 lb. Victory Malt

* Hops: Willamette, Fuggles or Goldings Hops    (1 oz. 60 minute boil & 1/2 oz. for last 10 minutes)

*Yeast : White Labs British, California or Edinburgh

* Irish Moss: 1 tsp. 30 minutes into boil

* Gypsum: 2 tsp. 30 minutes into boil

* Priming Sugar: 3/4 cup dextrose or 1-1/4 cup D.M.E.

                        

Perfect Porter  - Sharp, but not too roasty!

* Extracts: 7 lbs. Pale Malt Extract

* Steeping Malts: 1/2 lb. Caramel Malt (80L or 120L,   1/4 lb. Black Patent Malt & 1/2 lb. Chocolate Malt

*Hops: Golding, Fuggles or Willamette Hops (1-1/2 oz.  60 minute boil & 1/2 oz. last 10 minutes of boil)

*Yeast: White Labs  Irish or English

* Irish Moss: 1 tsp. 30 minutes into boil

* Gypsum: 3 tsp. 30 minutes into boil

* Priming Sugar: 3/4 cup dextrose or 1-1/4 cup D.M.E.

                        

Wicked Wanda Wheat Wonder  - Better than bread, it’s BAD!

* Extracts: 5 lbs. Wheat Dry Malt Extract

* Steeping Malts: 1/2 lb. Carahell Malt (20 L)

*Hops: Northern Brewer or Perle Hops (1 oz. 60 for minutes and 1/2 oz. last 10 minutes )

*Yeast:  White Labs American Wheat, Belgian Wit or  Kolsch

* Irish Moss: 1 tsp. 30 minutes into boil

* Gypsum: 1 tsp. 30 minutes into the boil

* Priming Sugar: 3/4 cup dextrose or 1-1/4 cup D.M.E.

                      First Brews designed by Joel Rea @ Corvallis Brewing Supply, last revised July 2016

Joel@lickspigot.com 541.758.1674. come visit me on the web at www.lickspigot.com Twitter: lickspigot

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For your First Brew plan on having at least 3 hours to set up, boil up your brew and to clean up your messes! Make it easy on yourself and have fun, so allow yourself plenty of time with limiting distractions. Don’t worry about mistakes...because home-brewed beer can be very forgiving and the chances are in your favor that you will still make great beer!

1. Yeast preparation: Remove your vial of White Lab’s yeast from the refrigerator 1 hour before you begin step #2. The yeast needs 4-6 hours to warm up before you pitch it into your wort. See step #11

2. Steeping the Specialty Grains: Place the cracked specialty malt (such as Crystal Malt, Chocolate Malt & Roasted Barley) into your mesh bag and add it to your boil pot with +/-3.0 gallons of cold water. Turn the heat on med-high and bring the water up to 170 degrees. Turn off the heat and allow the specialty malt to steep for another 10 minutes. Hint: Do not allow the grain bag to sit on the bottom of the pot, as it can melt!

3. Dissolving the malt extract: After you have steeped the malts remove the bag and allow it to drain into your boil pot. Either throw the malt away or compost it. Your mesh bag is good for many more batches of beer so rinse it in cold water and allow it to dry. While stirring, pour in the malt extract and dissolve it completely. Once it is thoroughly dissolved – otherwise it may burn or caramelize- turn the heat up on your stove and bring the wort to a boil. Hint: Use the warm water in your pot to rinse all of the malt extract out of the tub. We also charge $2.75 for a new tub, so bring one back to fill on your next trip to Corvallis Brewing Supply!

4. Boiling the wort: When the wort (beer without yeast) has begun to boil and you have adjusted the heat to prevent future boil-overs, set your clock for one hour. The amount of time that you will boil your wort is 60 minutes.  The potential for your wort to boil over is great! Take heed, as caramelized wort on the stovetop is a significant enough reason for your significant other to kick you right out of the house! If your are a bachelorette, no worries, eh? Well, let’s just say that once is enough to learn the lesson of what caramelized wort on the stove top is all about! If you notice, at the start of a boil, proteins coagulate into a cruddy sea foam-looking mass.This “Hot Break” formation will help to produce a cleaner and clearer finished beer. It is also directly related to “Cold Break” and Irish Moss. All three of these items aid in clarification of your beer.

5. Adding the hops: In beer, hops add bitterness, flavor and aroma. The longer a hop is in a boil the fewer aromas and flavors it will provide as heat degrades the flavor and floral qualities of hops as the lupulin oils are isomerize into bitterness. The longer a hop is in the boil the more bitter the beer will become. So, hops added for 60 minutes will produce only bitterness. Hops added for the last 15 - 5 minutes will produce a minimal amount of bitterness, lots of hop flavor and a little aroma. Hops added the last 10 - 0 minutes will add no bitterness, very little flavor and lots of aroma. Add your hops according to the times listed in parenthesis on page one. Stir the hops until they are saturated and they are free flowing in the wort...otherwise they will create a thermal blanket and cause a violent boil over!!

6. Irish moss: Irish moss is not really Irish, nor is it moss. Irish moss is actually seaweed and it helps to clarify your beer by coagulating proteins which settle out during “cold break.” Add 1 teaspoon of Irish moss 1/2 hour before the end of the boil.

7. Gypsum: Gypsum increases the hardness of water and it aids in clarification of the beer. Gypsum also helps to accentuate hop profile. Depending upon your water source you may or may not need to use brewing salts. In the Mid-Willamette Valley it typically is good to add salts, but not necessary. Add the gypsum 30 minutes into the boil.

8. Sanitizing your fermenter: While the wort is boiling, the primary fermenter needs to be cleaned and sanitized. 3 caps of Iodophor to 6-8 gallons of water in your bucket is a sufficient enough solution for sanitizing. U s e t h e Iodophor as a color indicator; a light yellow-colored solution is the correct color to have...if your solution is amber in color than you have mixed it too strong which makes it difficult to volatilize off your equipment. Soak the fermenter for 5 or more minutes and invert it to drain. Air dry the primary fermenter for 20 minutes prior to adding your wort to it. Hint: You do not need 6 gallons of sanitizer to sanitize your fermenter. A gallon of sanitizing solution sloshed around for 5 minutes will accomplish the same sanitizing task.

Amazing tid-bit: Hops have one other relative; marijuana. While you might find that smoking hops isn’t all that enjoyable, the dynamics of “bud lite” are such that you might find it expensive, futile and a huge bummer to use marijuana in brewing! Now, on the other hand, brownies and beer is a great combination...so I’ve heard.

9. Cooling the Wort: After you have boiled your wort the next goal is to get the yeast pitched ("brewspeak" for adding it to your wort) as soon as possible. Do not pitch the yeast into boiling wort, as the yeast will die! The wort in your primary fermenter needs to be 70- 75 degrees. To chill your wort put the kettle into a cold water or ice bath. A kitchen sink works great for this! You may need to stir the wort occasionally to mix the hot with the chilled. You may also need to change the bath water several times. Try to knock 125-150 degrees off of the kettle temp before putting the wort into your primary fermenter. Pour the wort into the primary fermenter through a strainer to keep the hops out of the fermenter. Use cold water to rinse the hops and to bring your volume up to 5.0- 5.25 gallons of volume. Remember “Hot Break”?Cold Break, is the re-coagulation of proteins during rapid cooling of the wort. Large protein clumps will help to clarify your beer when they fall out of suspension.

10. Taking a Hydrometer Reading: Mix your beer thoroughly with a sterile spoon and carefully remove enough wort to take a hydrometer reading. Hint: a turkey baster works really well for this. Don’t dump the beer back into the fermenter after taking the reading because you should also taste your unfermented beer. It is a good idea to taste the beer in its many different stages so that you may begin to get an idea of how the flavors will change during fermentation and during bottle conditioning. Record your Original Gravity. Hint: Now is a good time to start a beer journal! One day you may want to recreate this beer (or maybe not!!) BIG HINT! We cannot help you in determining what fermentation issues there might possibly be without you supplying us with hydrometer readings!! For these recipes you should have final gravities below 1.020. Don’t bottle unless it is!!

11. Pitching the Yeast: Snap the lid of the bucket on tight and rock the fermenter for a couple of minutes to aerate your wort. Hint: At this point in time oxygen is very necessary for proper yeast respiration; “More is better” at this time. Shake your vial of yeast to break up the deposit of yeast cells. Open the lid and pitch the yeast into the fermenter! You may need to use a small amount of water to rinse the vial that the yeast came in. Now put the air lock on the fermenter. Remember to put a small amount of water in the airlock trap! Congratulations! You have just made beer!!

12. Fermentation of Your Beer: Your ale yeast will be very happy if left alone at a temperature of 60-75 degrees and out of the light. Find a quiet place to put the fermenter to allow the yeast to work at converting the sugar to alcohol. It will take 18-24 hours for your yeast to begin fermentation. You can reduce this lag time by swirling your fermenter every 2-4 hours. This action will pick the yeast up off the bottom of the fermenter and get it energized! Try to resist the temptation of peeking into the fermenter as this will only introduce oxygen (now oxygen is not good!!) and bacteria. After flocculation, which is the settling out of the yeast, your beer will be ready to "rack" (that’s brewspeak for “siphoning”) to your secondary fermenter. It will be hard to see your beer while it is in an opaque bucket, so to tell if your beer is ready for racking look for this other sign: If your airlock is releasing less than one bubble per minute than it is o.k. to rack. Your beer will be in the primary fermenter for approx. 7-10 days. If you leave your beer in the primary fermenter longer than one week, after fermentation has ceased, it will begin to pick-up a yeast bite (white bread-yeasty flavor) from the dead yeast cells. This is one reason why it is important to rack the beer from the primary to the secondary as soon as yeast flocculation has taken place. Hint: A towel or Tee- shirt wrapped around your fermenter will help to protect your beer from light damage.

13.The Secondary Fermenter: Your beer ought to be ready to bottle about 7-10 days after racking into the secondary. The purpose of the secondary is to age and clarify the beer in a clean environment. If racked carefully the beer in the secondary fermenter is not sitting on a lot of dead yeast cells. It is o.k. to let the beer sit in the secondary fermenter for many weeks or months...in fact it is even encouraged!!

14. Taking a Second Hydrometer Reading: When you get a siphon-started take the first bit of the flow for a hydrometer reading. After noting the number in your log book take a good sensory evaluation of the beer. Get your nose close to the beer and smell it. Then, take a good hearty mouthful and marvel at the wonders of young beer! Write down some notes about the early characteristics of your beer.

15. Taking a Third Hydrometer Reading: In the secondary your beer may emit more CO2 gas with a renewed activity of fermentation. It may settle out and become real clear. When the later happens it is time to take a 3rd hydrometer reading. If you get the same reading as the second reading, or very close to it, then you are ready to bottle. If it is a different reading you should wait a few more days and take a 4th reading. When you have back-to- back samples that have unchanged readings you are ready to bottle. Ultimately, what you are measuring is the difference between fermentable sugars and non-fermentable solids (A.K.A. "body".) AGAIN! A S u p e r B I G HINT! We cannot help you in determining what fermentation issues there might possibly be without you supplying us with hydrometer readings!!

16. Bottling Your Beer: Have ready at least 48, 12-oz. or 33, 22-oz. crown cap bottles that are clean and sanitized. Hint: An easy way to sanitize bottles is to load them up in your dishwasher. Don’t use any soap

though! The rinse and dry cycles are hot enough to sanitize your bottles. At this point your beer will taste good, but it will be flat. To create carbonation you will need to re-feed the yeast with a priming sugar. To this, take one- to- two pints of water and your priming sugar and boil them for 5-10 minutes. (hint: a touch of acid - 1 tbls. Lemon juice or 1 tsp. citric acid added to your priming sugar solution will help to give the carbonation a smoother and creamier texture.) You will also need to sanitize your caps. To sanitize your caps hold them in 140 degree water for 10 minutes. Another method is to spray them with a spritzer of alcohol and water or to use your Iodophor. Put the dissolved and cooled priming sugar in your clean and sanitized bucket and then gently rack your beer out of the secondary fermenter and onto the priming sugar solution. When all of the beer is racked, you can use the racking cane to gently swirl the beer to help completely mix the priming sugar with the beer. Hint: when transferring your beer from the secondary into the bottling bucket be sure that you get some of the yeast off of the bottom... otherwise you may not have enough yeast in your beer for proper carbonation. You will need about 1 TBLS. of yeast-sediment transferred over. Attach the bottling wand to the end of your siphon tube, create a siphon and fill each bottle leaving one inch of headspace. After filling each bottle place a sanitized bottle cap onto each bottle. Do this with all of the beer before crimping the caps on. This will allow oxygen that is in the bottle to be pushed out by the CO 2 while keeping germs out. When all of the bottles are filled crimp on all of the caps, starting with the first one filled. Hint: Creating a siphon is simple but awkward for beginning brewers. Start with your receiving container(s) lower than what you are siphoning out of. Hold the flexible tubing horizontal and suck until the beer comes up and over past the crook of your racking cane. As the beer gets closer to you drop the flexible tubing into the receiving container. If you have your bottling wand attached it will take a little tongue action to keep the tip of the filler open while you are sucking. You will find a siphon nearly impossible to start if you are sitting below what you are siphoning out of.

17. Storing Your Beer: For the first week you will need to keep the beer at room temperature to allow the yeast to convert the priming sugar to CO2. One week after bottling grab one of the bottles and stick it in the fridge for an hour before serving. If it gives up a nice, “pppffffft!” upon opening then you have developed carbonation. At this point you can move your beer to a colder location for storage. If there is absolutely no carbonation then give Joel a call to discuss some measures for getting your beer carbonated. You will notice that homebrew reaches its prime, depending upon the style, after 3 - 4 weeks. It will be tough for you to resist the temptation, but try to wait two weeks before drinking all of the beer!! I recommend that you try one a week after bottling, then another after 2 weeks. You will note some significant changes for the better! Most homebrews will not last more than a year. Try to store your beer at a constant temperature below 60 degrees and out of the light. Hint: Don't wait until the last six pack is left before you ferment up another batch “Cheers!” If your beer did not carbonate after a week to two weeks there are several reasons that. First, after bottling you stored the beer in a cold location and the yeast went dormant. Second, you forgot to add priming sugar. Third, you were too careful in your rackings and did not get enough yeast carried over from your primary to your secondary and to your bottling bucket...Don’t be a Yeastybeastyphobe! To remedy flat beer you need to either move the beer to a warm area, add priming sugar and/or fresh yeast. Sometimes simply shaking the bottles 2 – 3 times a day for a week is sufficient for getting the yeast agitated and out of dormancy.

18. Bonus tips: Never use bleach for cleaning or sanitizing. If you think you have aerated your wort sufficiently then do it twice as long! Cool your wort as quickly as possible. If you don’t like how your beer is turning out bring a bottle down for an evaluation. Share with friends but insist on getting your bottles returned in a clean state! And always for the best homebrew, think good thoughts and be a good person!

This “malt extract and grain-steeping” recipe guide is designed to get you into a method of brewing that I think works really well...but, hopefully, you will develop your own opinions and methods! It is also designed as a hand-holding tool so that you can go home and get brewing. To advance your skill, think about a “mini-mash” or a stepping up to the bat and playing with the big boys and doing an “all-grain” batch. For more information refer to Charlie Papazian’s Complete Joy of homebrewing or Palmer’s How To Brew

                        

Predicting the FG of your beer when you know the OG and % ATTN of your yeast strain

OG - [%Att (OG - 1) ÷ 100] so, for example... 1.050 - [ 70 (1.050 - 1) ÷ 100] = 1.050 - .035 or a FG 1.015

                        

First Brews designed by Joel Rea @ Corvallis Brewing Supply, last revised July 2016

Joel@lickspigot.com 541.758.1674. come visit me on the web at www.lickspigot.com Twitter: lickspigot

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Location, Location, Location!

119 SW 4th St., Corvallis, OR. 97333

One block south of our grand courthouse in downtown Corvallis on 4th St. (aka Hwy. 99)

HOURS OF OPERATION:

Tues - Fri 10:00 am - 6:30 pm

Sat 10:00 am - 5:00 pm

Sun Noon - 4:00 pm

Monday - CLOSED

Contact Information:

ph - 541.758.1674

fax - 541.754.6656

 joel@lickspigot.com